Hair Extension Types & Methods: Figuring Out What’s Best for You
When it comes to hair extensions, everyone has seen the beautiful before and after content that hairstylists share on social media. In fact, you might have already decided that you’d like to add in hair extensions for either volume or length (or both!). But with a plethora of hair extension options to choose from, which method is truly best for you?
One of the biggest mistakes stylists and clients can make when it comes to hair extensions is assuming that every method is right for every person. The reality is that there are different hair extension methods because every person’s needs are unique!
Now, to be fair, there are several other hair extension types and methods to explore. Today, I’ll be reviewing the four extension methods that I personally offer as an extension specialist!
An In-Depth Review of 5 Hair Extension Methods
1. Sewn-in Wefts (AKA: the Hand-Tied Method)
“Sewn-in wefts” and “hand-tied extensions” or “wefts” are all used synonymously, even if they don’t have the exact same meaning (sew-in refers to the installation method while hand-tied refers to the extension itself), This overall method happens to currently be the most popular hair extension method, and my most requested by far.
Combo Method
Two wefts of sew-in extensions. Used for: length, volume and color.
Ktips in the front to increase the blend.
Sewn-in weft extensions essentially involve using small, ponytail-like sections that are secured with silicon-lined metal beads. Sometimes, a string will be used throughout those beads, depending on the level of support your hair might need (or the company that your stylist did their original training through). Those beads (and string) are used as a base to attach each weft of hair via a sewing method.
A “weft” is just a section of extension hair. Each weft is chosen based on the client’s hair type and needs - there are volume wefts, hand-tied weft and even combination wefts, and they all come in multiple colors! A huge benefit to extension wefts is that they can be custom colored and “rooted” by applying a darker color to the base of the extension, to achieve a seamless effect. By custom coloring and rooting each extension weft, the extensions should be camouflaged well enough to hide if your hair were to move, shift, or be blown around by the wind!
Sewn-in weft move ups: Depending on your personal preferences and hair growth, move ups can be scheduled every 4-8 weeks! Some stylists (based on the method used) also offer mini-move ups. My best piece of advice would be to partner with your hairstylist to combine your other trim, color, toning and gloss services with your move up appointments, so that you can get everything done at once.
2. iTips (AKA: Microbead Extensions)
With iTip extensions, small groups of extension hair are gathered into a piece of plastic, and attached to your natural hair using a metal bead lined with silicon.
iTip Extensions
Full head of iTip extensions used for length and some volume.
iTips are a great method to use in tandem with other extension types, but they can be used alone as well! The beauty about this hair extension method is that it can be heavily customized by adding different colors to specific areas, or to simply fill in small sparse sections of your hair. Additionally, iTips allow you to get closer to the hairline in fuller areas of your hair, while leaving room for coverage in sparse areas. Because iTip extensions are applied individually, they’re extremely flexible and can be moved around and styled easily in buns, ponytails and braids!
Over the years, I’ve come to the realization that in order to properly and safely support your hair with iTips, the right amount of extension hair needs to be attached to natural hair. Because of that, I’ve run into situations where I’ve wanted to install more extension hair, but simply haven’t had the space for it. This is a huge reason why it’s important to ensure you’re consulting with your stylist when selecting the right extension method for you - they’ll be able to tell you if your hair has the density needed to go with a full head of iTips, or if you should use iTips and another method (like sewn-in wefts) to achieve the look you’re going for!
iTip move ups: I recommend scheduling your maintenance and move up appointments every 6 weeks. The extension hair itself will typically last 6-8 months!
kTips (AKA, Keratin Bonded Extensions)
KTips are small, individually installed and bonded extension pieces. Because of how detailed kTips are, they do require a longer installation process. KTip extension sizes can be customized based on your specific hair needs, and they last 3-5 months without salon maintenance!
Combo Method
Wefts were used to add length and volume. Ktips applied near the crown and front for extra blending.
I generally use kTips in combination with other extension methods. KTips are a great way to fill in hard to reach, easy to see, or extra sparse areas. They perform beautifully when added to a sewn-in weft installation to get closer to the hairline, or used to frame your face to extend that money piece.
I love recommending kTip extensions to my clients who aren’t able to get into the salon for frequent move ups and maintenance due to a busy travel schedule.
No move ups: With other extension methods, hair growth requires frequent move up appointments to keep the extensions closer to the root of the hair. With kTips, move ups don’t take place! They’ll grow out at the same rate as your hair, since you’re not moving them back to the root of your hair. 3-5 months after your kTip installation, a removal solution is applied and the bonds are broken. Then, your new kTip extension hair is applied!
4. Tape In Extensions
Tape-in extensions involve two medical grade pieces of tape that attach extension hair to your own. The pieces of tape are adhered together while sandwiching your natural hair in between.
Tape-Ins
Tape-in extensions for some length, color and volume.
Tape-in extensions are a great option if you’re looking to add a bit of volume to your hair, without adding on a ton of extra time to your color appointments. The thing I love most about tape-in extensions is that they can still be used to fill in sparse areas, grow out old hair cuts and hide breakage, without the need to set aside as much time as you would for a method like iTips.
Tape-ins give full coverage, but are super customizable since several tabs of hair can be applied to your own hair at varying positions. Whether you’re craving just a bit of added volume, or you’d like to achieve an all-over volume and length look, tape-ins are a great method to explore!
Tape-in move ups: As a rule of thumb, plan to schedule your move up appointments every 6 weeks. New tape will be applied to your tape-in extensions at each move up appointment - because of this, many clients opt to schedule their move ups along with their color appointments. Since you’re already getting color touched up and likely applied to the roots, your move ups will feel like a super quick add on because your extensions will be retabbed as your color processes! If you’re not getting color done, there is a bit of a waiting period while your stylist retabs your extensions before applying. In that case, I would suggest moving to another method, or working with a stylist who has an assistant who can retab your extensions as your stylist removes.
5. Combline Extensions
You may or may not have heard of this method. That’s because Combline extensions are the newest type available and the number of certified stylists are currently limited. They are not meant to be used for a full head installation, but instead are used to compliment the methods that you already know and love. They are individual strands that are attached by a single strand of your natural hair, meaning that they can be applied extremely close to the hairline without being noticed.
Combline extensions are a great option if you’ve experienced hair loss. They work wonderfully to fill in areas that normally you would not be able to place extensions into. Think: hairline, or along the top part. These are a great option for things like breakage around the face, postpartum hair loss, or thinning around the crown.
Combline gives minimal coverage, but allows for an extremely customizable look. If you’ve felt limited by your current extension method, these may be a good add-on to explore.
Comblie Maintenance: As a rule of thumb, plan to schedule your maintenance appointments every 6 weeks. What’s very different with combline versus other extension methods is that they are made to shed with your hair. (Think: eyelash extensions). Since they are applied 1:1 with your natural hair, when that strand sheds, the extension will shed along with it. Due to this your six week appointment will be for a fill rather than a move-up like you see with other extensions.
Always, always, always listen to your stylist’s maintenance suggestions.
Don’t just take my word for it - check in with your stylist, too! It’s important to know that “damage” from extensions can typically be attributed to improper installation, poor at-home hair care, or waiting too long between maintenance appointments.
If you’re located in the Bay Area and are ready to find the perfect hair extension method for your own hair type (and lifestyle), fill out this brief form below! I’ll email you a customized breakdown of extension types that will suit you and your needs best 💖
Resources & tools for extensions and your natural hair 👇
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